INSTEON Scenes Tip

February 27, 2008

Still no comments… I’ll get one :).  Let me know what you want to know, and as long as they let me post I will answer them as quickly as I can.

Today I am going to talk about linking a LampLinc module with a On-level and Ramp Rate different than what is factory default to an INSTEON controller (for simplicity I am going to use the SwitchLinc dimmer in my example)First thing you are going to do, after installing the SwitchLinc and the LampLinc, is to put the SwitchLinc in linking mode by pressing the paddle in the on position for 10 seconds.  The LEDs on the left should start to blink.  Now got to the LampLinc and press the Set Button for about 3 seconds, the lamp should flash, and the SwitchLinc will stop blinking.

 The SwitchLinc will now turn the lamp on and off quickly and to full bright.  What we did when we did this link was basically take a picture of the lamps setting at the time of the linking.  The advantage we have now is that we have control of the LampLinc. 

So what I recommend is that next we adjust the ramp rate of the LampLinc.  From the SwitchLinc, brighten or dim the light so that you can have the basic ramp rate you want.  Remember the brighter the light the faster the ramp rate, the dimmer the light the slower.  Basically watch the LEDs on the SwitchLinc, when they are at the top its .1 second, when it’s on the bottom level (not off) its 9 sec. Once you have set the level that you think is going to work for you, tap the set button on the LampLinc twice in quick succession.  The Lamp should flash just once, if it flashes twice there was too much time between presses, and try it again.

Now set the on level of the lamp.  This one is easy as it is a “What You See Is What You Get” function.  Go to the SwitchLinc and adjust the light up or down to what will meet your needs.  Once you have done that go to the LampLinc and press the set button just once.  The Lamp should flash.

Now I know what you are thinking and experiencing “the switch is still turning it on Full Blast at warp speed” (OK maybe not that geeky, but I understand) that’s because the “picture” stored on the SwitchLinc hasn’t changed.  We need to take a new picture with the new settings.  Put the SwitchLinc in linking mode by pressing the paddle in the on position for 10 seconds.  The LEDs on the left should start to blink.  Now got to the LampLinc and press the Set Button for about 3 seconds, the lamp should flash, and the SwitchLinc will stop blinking.  Now it is working the way you want.

Want to do it faster?  Of course you so, by pressing the set button on the bottom of the SwitchLinc you can enter Linking mode in 3 seconds instead of the 10 needed with the paddle press.

Want to do it better?  Use a RemoteLinc or ControLinc to set the on level and ramp rate so you don’t have to get up and down from where the lamp is plugged in?

Want to do it smarter?  Use HouseLinc on your computer and then it can be set up while listening to iTunes :)

and that’s the way I see it


File this under Trouble Shooting

February 25, 2008

Did ya know???

The INSTEON RemoteLinc will repeat the RF in your home when awake?  So if you are having issues with two Access Point modules not “talking”  to each other, take your RemoteLinc to the mid point and press a button on it.  If the Access Point Modules start to talk to each other, you know to get another Access Point and put it in the middle.

The INSTEON Thermostat Adapter will also repeat the INSTEON RF signal… I believe my house is becoming smarter by the minute

and thats how I see it.


INSTEON 3-Way Tip

February 16, 2008

What good is it to be called SH Tipster if I don’t give you any tips?  I mean really that makes my name self defeating.  SO I asked my good friends over in Product support, what is a call you get so often that I can solve it here, for them, for you (that makes sense right?)  So here is my description of an INSTEON 3 way, and how to link them.

First you have 2 locations that need to turn on and off the light in two locations.  In one location there should be power and in the other the load wire.  Use a volt meter to make the determination of which wires are which.

If you do not have power in both locations, use one of the traveler wires to “float” the power to the other location.  The first switch needs to be connected to Hot, Neutral, load, and ground.  Get that switch to turn on and off, if that works moved to the second switch.

The second switch needs to be connected to Hot, Neutral, and Ground.  CAP THE LOAD WIRE on the switch.  It isn’t needed.  Cap the unused traveler wire.  Turn power back on and make sure the LED(s) on the switch are going up ad down (or on ICON modules LED goes on and off.)

We have to l ink these two switches together.  It’s a piece of cake, and should take about a minute.  Go to the first switch (I don’t care which one is first, label them as A and B, and I will refer to them as such.)

Go to Switch A and press and hold the paddle into the on position for 10 seconds.  The LED(s) will begin to blink.  Next go to switch B and press and hold the paddle in the on position for 10 seconds, the LED should flash but not blink.  Verify that switch A LED in not blinking, this will tell us that the link took.

Take a breath; we are going to the second half

Go to Switch B and press and hold the paddle into the on position for 10 seconds.  The LED(s) will begin to blink.  Next go to switch A and press and hold the paddle in the on position for 10 seconds, the LED should flash but not blink.  Verify that switch A LED in not blinking, this will tell us that the link took.

And that’s it.

 3 way linking

Questions?  Class Dismissed

 

And that’s the way I see it.

 

 


Word of the day… Domotics.

February 14, 2008

OK, I am not sure when that word came into play, but I read it a month ago on Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Home_automation) and now I am seeing it all over the place… EBay (http://search.ebay.com/domotics), my TV show NCIS recently mentioned it, and now my tech papers…. Why now?  Did I always read it as it is defined “Home Automation?”

It appears to have traveled here to America from Europe.  It is from the French word domotique, and they got it from Latin Domus meaning home and tic meaning blood sucking… just kidding tic means “information.   It can loosely mean Home Automation or Smart houses (I’m not making that up http://www.domoticlab.se/pdf/engbroch.pdf)

So next time you are on Jeopardy and they bring it up (which they recently did,) be like me, look smart and say “Home Automation” and amaze your friends

And that’s how I see it